Cómpeta & La Axarquía

La Axarquia is the name of the mountainous region east of Malaga. It is the area behind the coastal town Nerja, where there are beautiful mountains and white towns including Cómpeta and Frigiliana.

Last year my mum, who has always had a nose for adventure, took me on a weekend of walking in this beautiful area.

The walks we did were based around two white towns in this mountain range: Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida .

After renting a car in Malaga, we drove for about an hour; first along the coast and then up the steep mountain road towards Canillas de Albaida. The town is small but full of life and has many little bars and restaurants, showing it is a popular spot for tourists. We spent two nights in the sweet hotel Posada La Plaza in the middle of the town.

La Plaza is a simple but charming hotel which has an accompanying restaurant across the square. The rooms have beautiful views across the village and the mountains below.

The valley around the village is mostly farmland where they grow a variety of produce, including avocados and lemons. The traditional drink here is vino de moscatel, a sweet wine which is grown in the nearby vineyards.

The first walk we did was a circular route through the valley below Canillas de Albaida. Leaving the mountain village behind, you walk down towards the river at the bottom of the valley, crossing the stream and walking through the swamp like forest of oleander trees. The route then climbs back up and snakes around the mountain until you eventually reach Canillas de Albaida again. It takes about three hours to complete.

The second walk was from Canillas de Albaida to the neighbouring town Cómpeta. Starting at the chapel right at the top of the town, admire beautiful views in to the natural park and over the hills towards the coast.

From the chapel, continue up until you find a sign for Cómpeta. The path isn’t very obvious but once you find it, it’s a simple and short walk. The route twists around the hill until you see the whitewash houses below.

Cómpeta is a little bigger than Canillas de Albaida. It has a lovely, main square which is full of life. I recommend visiting Cómpeta to enjoy the hustle and bustle of a lively, Andalusian village. It is built on a steep mountain and it’s a tough walk up to the top. If you fancy a challenge, Cómpeta‘s football pitch is right above the village and has stunning views out to sea.

The third and best walk takes you in to the Axarquía natural park. The best place to start is La Fábrica de la Luz, the old electricity plant for the towns in the area. It is a beautiful building built next to a stream and has picnic benches for people to enjoy. Follow the water and head in to the valley of this stunning area. We walked straight in to the hills for about an hour then turned around to follow the same path back. I’m sure there area many different routes in this part of the park – it’s just a question of knowing how to find them!

La Axarquia natural park and the towns of Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida are not far away from Malaga city and are absolutely worth visiting. Breathe in the mountain air and enjoy this blissfully peaceful place, far away from the chaotic coast below.

Side note: I would recommend the book Walking in Andalucía, which we used to plan the trip. It gives advice about the many hikes you can do through the natural parks in the province. Written in English, this guide a great place to start as it’s difficult to find walking routes unless you know a local who has done them before!