Córdoba

This pretty little city is found deep in Andalucía’s inland. It’s small, condensed centre makes for great exploring.

There are plenty of lively restaurants and bars and just beyond the overpriced touristy areas are some great local spots. For example, Plaza de la Corredera hosts a food market during the day and atmospheric drinks at night.

OPTION BE

The best hostel of the trip by far. Affiliated with Bed and Be, Option Be is a brand new, super-clean and comfortable hostel in a superb location. It even comes with its own roof top pool.

MEZQUITA

This is what puts Córdoba on the map. A unique mix of Islam and Christianity, the Mezquita is the symbol of sophisticated Islamic culture. Córdoba was once the capital of Islamic Spain and boasts one of the largest mosques in the world – with a twist. In the 16^th Century, the Christians built their own cathedral right in the middle and 50 or so chapels along the sides.

Nevertheless, the mosque’s serenely spacious interior has been preserved; the idea based on a simple Islamic prayer hall. Endless red and white striped arches give it a distinctive character.

The complex also includes Patio de los Naranjos (Orange Tree Patio) and the Bell Tower which was originally built as the mosque ’s minaret.

This coexistence of both religions is quite astounding and truly memorable.

(N.B. The Mezquita can be visited for free between 8 and 9am. Before the heat and the crowds, this is the best time to go as the building has a special atmosphere in the early morning.)

PATIOS

Córdoba’s patios are the city’s hidden gem. In May, most are opened up to the public during Fiesta de los Patios but off season, you can enjoy Ruta de Patios de Alcázar Viejo.

Paying seven euros gives you access to seven private patios. You are greeted by the owners; some are very chatty and informative but others keep to themselves during your visit.

The private patios have been passed down through Córdoba’s families for generations.

They are brimming with plant life, including countless pots of geraniums and bougainvillea. To keep extra cool, the floors are made from piedras chinas, stones from the bottom of the Guadalquivir river. Other features include fountains, wells, washing areas and wooden rocking chairs.

There was a mixed reaction to the creation of the paid patio route. Some owners enjoyed the benefits; they are given part of the profit to help with maintenance as the upkeep of the patios is very labour intensive. Others however, were against the commercialisation and believed Córdoba’s patios should remain free for public viewing. They claimed that presenting a patio should be done out of personal pride.

One thing’s for sure, these stunning, shady enclaves cannot be missed.

Smart and elegant, Córdoba is a classy city with its own unique character.

 

Next stop: Jaén