La Sierra de Aracena

North of the province’s capital and beyond the endless sunflower fields, (spectacular during the months of May and June) lies the natural park La Sierra de Aracena. Relatively undiscovered, this gem of a place is truly breath-taking.  The park includes a scattering of picturesque whitewashed towns, connected by well-marked hiking routes. It’s perfect walking territory outside of the hot summer months.  I was lucky enough to visit a few of these special towns, including:

• Campofrío

Named ‘The Gateway to the Sierra,’ this small, underwhelming town apparently has one of Spain’s oldest bullrings.

 

• Aracena

Capital of the natural park, Aracena was definitely my favourite. It has a beautiful, lively centre and higher up, a medieval church and ruined castle that overlook the town and the hills beyond.

 

• Fuenteheridos

Literally translated as ‘spring of the wounded,’ this charming town was where wounded soldiers were taken during the Civil War. It has a natural spring with gorgeously fresh, icy water from the mountains.

 

• Linares de la Sierra

Another sweet little place, lined with narrow cobbled streets

 

• Alajár

Despite not visiting the town itself, I was taken Peña de Arias Montano, which has spectacular views of Alajár from above. The Chapel here is home to the virgin of La Sierra de Aracena.

 

• Almonaster la Real

This peaceful village has its very own mezquita, essentially a miniature version of Cordoba’s Mezquita. Finding such preserved Islamic features in a small, Spanish town is astonishing.

 

 

I can honestly say that La Sierra de Aracena was one of the most beautiful places I visited in Andalucía. Well worth a visit.

 

 

SIDE STORY: EL ROCÍO

It was in Huelva where I learned about one of Spain’s most famous towns: El Rocío.

El Rocío is a tiny town east of Huelva with a huge reputation. Every year at Pentecost (eight weeks after Easter), 115 brotherhoods join Spain’s biggest religious pilgrimage, the Romeria del Rocío. This ends in Rocío, the supposed home of Nuestra Senora de Rocio (Our lady of el Rocio.) The brotherhoods, who all have properties in the town, travel for miles across Andalucía, walking, on horseback or in wagons, to get to the holy site.

When they have all arrived, there are huge celebrations: everyone dresses up in their finest traditional Andaluz costume (similar to that of flamenco.) The festivities culminate at 3am on Sunday night when the men of the brotherhoods are let loose to touch the holy Rocío. A violent struggle ensues.

Although clambering over each other in an attempt to get close to this holy woman seems barbaric in an outsiders’ eyes, this is a highly emotional time. Amongst the tears, chaos and passion, Rocío is eventually carried out on her float around the town.

After talking to people who have participated in el Rocío, it is clear that the religious element is far less pronounced than it was. Today, the Romeria del Rocío is a tradition rather than a religion as the honour of participating in the pilgrimage is passed down through generations.

 

Next stop: Jerez