La Puebla de Cazalla is a small, Andalusian town found one hour south of the region’s capital, Sevilla. This is where I stayed with Tamara and her family and got to experience life in Andalucía, la vida andaluza, first hand.
First Impressions
La Puebla was a very unique place. It was so typically Spanish that I almost felt I had stepped into a film set. Set against a deep blue sky, the buildings were in the classic Southern style; all white to reflect the sun with yellow features and window bars. I was given a tour of the town’s main attractions; the ayuntamiento, which was done in a beautifully authentic style and the church, set higher up from the rest of the buildings. By chance, I got to see the church while a wedding was taking place which was pretty spectacular. I was also shown the town’s parks and idyllic squares where people sat outside and enjoyed the Andalusian weather. Compared to any small town in Northern Europe, La Puebla has hundreds of bars and cafés; going out to drink and have a chat is clearly a fundamental part of the local culture.
Another thing that struck me was how much people knew each other. Every five metres we were forced to stop while Tamara greeted one person or another, asking how they were and how their relatives were doing etc. A lot of Tamara’s extended family lives in the town so she has a huge number of connections. I soon realised that in some way or another, everyone in La Puebla knew everything about everyone. Although I could laugh as an outsider, it seemed like a pretty oppressive environment to live in. You couldn’t leave your house without bumping into someone you knew!
Every morning, Tamara and I had breakfast at Los Veinte which looked like a very average road bar but was known to do the best sandwiches in town. These were made using moelletes, round white bread rolls typically from La Puebla. We sat outside with an unexciting view of the main road but enjoying a great breakfast; café con leche and a mollete with jamón and olive oil. It was at this bar where I first encountered the cheap Andalusian prices; two breakfasts cost us five euros, incomparable to Ibiza!
On the Friday, I was shown around los restos, a weekly market held in the main square of La Puebla. This was essentially for bargain buys (e.g. ten pairs of pants for a euro) and most stuff wasn’t of great quality. However, if you looked carefully you could grab some decent things at prices hard to find elsewhere. The market also had fruit and veg, including one man who was selling two kilos of the most succulent looking strawberries for two euros! The market was evidence that the cost of living in La Puebla is far lower than in the rest of Spain.
Aside from the olive trees, the land around La Puebla is also used to grow other produce. Tamara’s family own a pretty big plot where they grow their own stuff. This included a vegetable patch, a number of hens and almond, walnut and oranges trees (which are all over Southern Spain.) Freshly picked oranges meant the luxury of having freshly squeezed orange juice every day. And what a flavour they had! Sweeter and more refreshing than anything I’ve tasted before. Tamara’s family were making the most of their home-grown produce before the scorching summer weather leaves everything bone dry. I was told that temperatures in La Puebla can reach 45+ degrees; a heat that becomes physically unbearable.
As well as being guided around Tamara’s home ground, I also got to see some of La Puebla’s neighbouring towns. One afternoon we drove to Morón de la Frontera, a bigger but less beautiful town which had an impressive main square and its own active plaza de toros (bull ring.) Another evening, we took a trip to Arahal for a night at the flamenco bar El Lerele. Beforehand, we ate at La Mazaroca, a unique bar crammed with typical Andalusian artefacts. The walls were covered with various bits and pieces, including quirky old photographs and cooking equipment. The food was out of this world, everything bursting with flavour, and after indulging so much at gone 11pm, it was a struggle to enjoy the flamenco party afterwards!
Although I loved everything that I saw (and ate!) in La Puebla and its surroundings, the best thing about it was the people. Andalusians are famous for being friendly but I was taken aback by how nice everyone was. From the waiters who served us at the bars to friends of friends, they couldn’t have been kinder. People were so warm and open. I thought as an outsider I may get some funny looks but everyone was eager to talk, asking about me and making jokey conversation. I loved it, and felt comfortable from the moment I arrived. I ate the traditional dish puchero with Tamara’s extended family; laughing with her aunt and grandparents as if I had been there for years. Time spent with them was effortless. I even made friends with the local shepherd and was introduced to his donkey; a priceless moment.
The people of La Puebla were wonderfully warm-hearted. You could tell there was a serious lack of work (hence why so many come to Ibiza), and life is clearly not easy for many. However, this did not affect their cheeriness. The locals knew how to enjoy life and their good humour and high spirits made a strong impression and made the trip truly unforgettable.
La Buena Vida 