Nadal

It may seem like a funny thought but the Christmas spirit does come to this sunny Mediterranean island.  The weather has been getting colder, dropping from 20 to 12 degrees; still nothing compared to England but a significant change here. Ibicencos are now wrapped up in winter jackets and preparing for the the festive season; an important time of the year. The Christmas lights have been turned on, not only lighting up the center of town but also the surrounding neighborhoods and villages. Displays have thoughtfully been assembled around the island, bringing colour and sparkle to many streets.

The Christmas lights are particularly magical near Dalt Vila (the old town), including the word ‘Nadal’ (Catalan for Christmas) lit up on the old cathedral. Ibiza town also boasts its own Christmas tree, not as awesome as ones you would find in bigger cities but impressive nonetheless. A feria (funfair) has also been set up near the town, with your average flashing lights and coches de choque (bumper cars) which the children love. The fair also includes the infamous churros stalls, as the sweet snack is considered a festive treat.

At school, the children have been kept busy making Christmas decorations, filling the hallways with festive displays. (Helped out by the parents too!) For example, although advent calendars aren’t a thing here the December countdown is still important and younger years have made Christmas calenders, crossing off the days as they go by. Decorations at home are also popular; many families buy Christmas trees (all fake, real ones couldn’t be grown on the island) and decorate them similar to the ones back home. The shops also have a surprising amount of festive merchandise, especially the Chinos; cheap Chinese shops which sell practically everything.

Although I won’t be around to celebrate a Christmas here, I’ve been asking around and have got a pretty good impression about what it’s like…Like most other countries, Christmas is a time to spend with the family. People get together with grandparents, uncles, aunts and cousins, many Ibicencos reuniting with family living in Barcelona or elsewhere on the peninsular. However, the giving of presents isn’t quite the same. Unlike in England, people aren’t expected to give something to every member of their family; some buy gifts but the main attention is on the children. (This means no presents under the tree!) Traditionally, children get their presents on the 6th of December, Día de los Tres Reyes (Day of the three kings) from the kings who arrive by boat to distribute them. (I’ve heard there is a big parade in Ibiza on the night of the 5th to welcome them.) However, many children also get something from Papa Noel on Christmas day. Papa Noel doesn’t normally leave presents in stockings here but instead drops them off by the front door or near the fire. Getting two sets of presents seems rather excessive but after talking to the children, it seems the only expect one or two things from both.

In terms of food, the Spanish love any excuse to cook up feasts for big groups of people. The main meal is cooked on Christmas Eve when some kind of meat is eaten, but nothing as unique or distinct as the English Christmas Dinner. (No doubt they would find the concept of liquid bread rather strange)  In Ibiza, some eat the traditional dish Salsa de Nadal. This is served as a pudding and has a fairly bizarre recipe, including chicken soup/broth (which they love here), almonds, eggs and others. Apparently it’s delicious but I’m honestly not sure if I could stomach it…

Another important Christmas event is the lottery, This is a national thing which happens annually, culminating with a results show when children from a school in Madrid sing the lucky numbers out on national television. I was explained how the lottery worked but it’s still not totally clear. From what I understood during the weeks running up to the results, small bars and businesses buy lottery tickets. Their regular clients then buy a share into the ticket with the promise that if the company wins, they will receive a share of the prize money. The idea is that you win as a group and would be left out if they had the lucky number and you hadn’t joined in. Lots of businesses in Ibiza are selling tickets and it sounds like they make a lot money from this tradition.

So there you have it; a small insight into what Christmas is like in Ibiza. Similar but different to the celebrations I’m used to. The Christmas craze isn’t as intense as in the UK but nevertheless it’s still a significant time of the year here. ¡Bon Nadal!/¡Feliz Navidad!